Winemaking in Great Britain? So much to discover...
Trade and press tastings are the backbone of the wine trade, allowing us viti-nerds to sample as much as we can and explore what's emerging on the scene. These sessions give us the chance to meet the minds behind the bottles and taste a wide variety in one setting. More importantly, they offer a chance for us all to come together and share a glass – my favourite part, of course!
On the 5th of September, one such event drew an enviable crowd of the who’s-who of the British wine industry: the annual WineGB Tasting. Held at the Battersea Arts Centre in London, the day offered an opportunity to delve into the burgeoning wine landscape of our little island.
WineGB (Wines of Great Britain) began as the national industry body for grape growers in the late 60s and has since become a pivotal player for viticultural education, lobbying for winemakers in Westminster, and fostering trade and wine tourism both internationally and domestically. Among other collaborations they work closely with organisations like the Porto Protocol, advocating sustainability in all aspects of winemaking and providing in-depth data on the industry's growth over the years.
For some time now, wine made in England has been celebrated for the quality of its sparkling wines, a reputation that has even lead to land acquisition and wine production by Champagne houses like Taittinger and Pommery. But this tasting was far removed from any Champagne tasting I’ve been to: there was an overwhelming sense of positivity, pride, and passion among the winemakers that was reflected in the exceptional quality of the wines in the room.
While the usual suspects were very much present - Nytimber, Gusbourne, Chapel Down, Biddenden… - I also made a few exciting new discoveries. These are my top three:
Denbies Wine Estate in Surrey
Denbies Wine Estate
Orange wine… English orange wine… English Vermouth made from orange wine? Bear with me. Using the indigenous Solaris grape, something I’d like to see more of, Denbies has created an Orange Solaris wine that, for the 2022 vintage, was delightfully crisp with bitter notes, well-integrated aromatics and orange creamsicle flavours. I flippantly quipped that it would make a fantastic Vermouth only to find they’d already made one and produced a bottle for me to try. Arguably my favourite wine at the tasting: Christingle notes, blood orange, bergamot, thyme, and more enveloped the glass, providing a delightfully festive experience.
Oxney Organic Estate
The largest single estate 100% organic producer in England, Oxney’s 14.2 hectares produce 20% of all the organic grapes grown in the UK. Bravo! The ethos that in order to create a great quality wine you need a great vineyard is what has made this estate the leaders in English Organic winemaking from the get-go. Particularly impressive was the cleanliness that ran throughout the range, especially the Blanc de Blancs 2018, which was fresh, saline, light, and crisp.
Ambriel Sparkling Wine
Meeting the husband and wife duo behind Ambriel was a lot of fun and it felt to me like their character had rubbed off on these exciting, bubbly wines. I was most excited about the Demi-Sec, something we don't often see in Sparkling Wine, regardless of its origin which is a shame because it’s an underrated style: proof of which was found in their 2010 English Reserve which had notes of lemon sherbet and shortbread and a bright acidity that balanced the rich texture and full finish.